Thursday, April 29, 2010

Bhubaneshwar - The city of temples

Retail Banking does not pay a great deal. What it does however is give you great experiences, different job roles, different people to meet and my favorite part - lot of different places to travel to and experience. My latest travel program took me to Bhubaneshwar...The city of temples. Puri has always been a favorite haunt for the Bengali, and Bhubaneshwar - 60 km away is a favorite haunt for most travellers. However somehow it had not featured in the 4 - 5 trips i have made to Puri as a kid and it was my first visit to Bhubaneshwar.
I landed at 12.30 in the afternoon, the air connectivity is not great to Orissa yet with not too many morning flights from Mumbai. The plan for the day was to spend time at the Orissa state office and in the evening go to Cuttack. As is my wont I insisted on a traditional lunch and we went to Dalma - possibly the only national Odiya food chain - they have an outlet in Bangalore.
I went for the Prawn meal at Dalma. The meal consists of rice, a prawn curry which was a bit like the traditional Malai chingri - only redder than the Bengali version and quite tasty. You also get Dalma - which is quite simply Dal cooked Odiya style - with lots of vegetables and is a traditional Odiya preparation, decent but not outstandingly good. The highlight of the meal was the sweet dish we had - Rasaballi which is fried sweets soaked in Kheer. I am not a fan of sweets but the Rasaballi was really really nice.
We then left for Cuttack at around 5 PM, Cuttack is a twin city and is around 20 km from Bhubaneshwar. The route also contains one of the highest per capita sweetmeat shops in a 400 m stretch that you will ever pass through. The 400 m stretch is lined on both sides by shops selling sweets. We stopped and sampled the most famous Pahado Rasogulla. The Pahado Rasogulla is a browning Rasogulla made of Chhana. More than the taste which is quite good, what does stand out is the area with the lines of shops.
I spent the night at Hotel Crown back in Bhubaneshwar, ferreted in by my injured foot, ordering room service and watching some Ollywood - the odiya film industry. Next morning was the time of the 2 hours i allow myslef to sight see in the travels that work takes me on. The same is done from 7 to 9 AM before office starts. In Bhubaneshwar the most famous tourist sight is the Lingaraja temple. The temple however was skipped because of my dicey foot. I instead spent the two hours going to see two of Bhubaneshwars other landmarks. The Udaygiri/ Khandigiri caves - Jain caves built into hills which are heritage monuments and the more historical and land-mark-ish Dhualigiri Stupa which is built on the sight where Ashoka the great Maurya king saw the river soaked in blood and embraced Ahimsa. It was pretty cool going on top of the small hill where the stupa is placed, overlooking the river from the spot where Indian history took an entirely different course. Incidentally the river is also where Shahrukh and Kareena were romancing during the famous movie.
The rest of the day was work which took me to all parts of the city. The city is really rather well planned. The most impressive thing were the vending zones created by the government. These are places where hawkers have been relocated to, green in colour and having the feel of a bistro, the zones have resulted in the city being neat, and as evidenced by the business the hawkers doing good business as well. In the afternoon I had a chance to also sample the famous drink the Lingaraaja Lassi, which was unlike most Lassis brownish in colour possibly due to jaggery I am not quite sure, it is very heavy, though taste wise does not really come close to the Original Lassiwala in Jaipur.
The other really striking aspect I will always remember about my visit was how Orissa appeared to be a classic link between North and South India. The script was very like the script followed by the South of the country, the dialect however was similar to the North.
Overall - a very productive and enriching trip. I left with a far higher opinion about the state and the government than I had come with. It just goes with show that dynastic politics and a long uninterrupted party rule in a state need not necessarily lead to decay or slow progress. One just needs the right people for the job.

Glory Glory Man United?

Well not really, you Red Devils... and I know that there are a lot of you out there... The club for me is Barcelona... But you do have a great Cafe. Went there on IPL day, the match between Rajasthan Royals and Deccan Chargers. Was there for the first half of the game, for a drink and some snacks... Had some Satay which was very good, and some Onion Rings - which were also rather good... but hey you can only go so much wrong with Onion Rings.
The ambience was rather good, large screens everywhere with a particularly large one opposite the bar. The service was rather poor but not their fault as the commentary volume was so loud everyone was reduced to trying out their dumb charade skills. But all said and done it must be great fun watching a Man U game with a couple of beers and a house full of fans. Would have done that if I was a fan... Unfortunately I am not... I am just a grudging acknowledger.

How to get there: 4th Floor, Palladium, Phoenix Mills, Parel.

The Mumbai Cave Trail

Sometime last month... The exact date is lost due to the late consistency of my blogging, we embarked on the Mumbai Cave trail. Elephanta was done and dusted... It was time for the other two.
One right in the heart of the suburbs of maximum city, right in the middle of the urban jungle, easily accessible through bus routes, infact it acts as a bus stop but so non descript, so un-marketed that you have to see it twice to confirm the actual existence. I am talking about Mahakali Caves. The place everyone seems to know and pass but hardly anyone actually visits. Well we did, for a moment because there is little to see - uncared for, without proper space for parking a car and taking a good view. I actually did not even get out of the car. You can see from the pic that the caves are actually their. Do go and visit, take some pictures, exclaim a little... Maybe the Mumbai authorities will do something about it. Its a cave! for God's sake...maybe they could lease the same out to a restaurant chain for some fancy cave food? Yum!
The other, less famous but more visited and equally badly marketed are the Kanheri Caves...where are they located? Right in the middle of Sanjay Gandhi national park... Where is Sanjay Gandhi National Park? Its a bit off Borivali and completely worth a days visit. Only please do go there during the monsoons or winter as the place would seem quite brilliant. The caves are quite a bit inside the forest, around a 20 minute drive and are in one word breathtaking. Easily one of the most awe inspiring sights I have seen and completely unbelievable when you think of the fact that it is completely within Mumbai. Too bad that the place is hardly talked about. Kanheri Caves actually count 108 distinct caves, though we visited only 3, as it was very very hot. The caves have various Buddhist carvings and it is actually quite stunning to think of the effort that must have gone into the construction. I am sure that if Mumbai could market Elephanta and Kanheri to South East Asia better, you would have the MNS bringing out processions against speaking in Mandarin :)