Thursday, November 18, 2010

Howrah, Crawford Market, Mumbai

Howrah is the Bengali restaurant of the New Bengal Hotel near Crawford Market. The restaurant and the hotel are one of the oldest Bengali joints in Mumbai. The objective is to recreate a corner of Mumbai that is the city of joy. The effort works to a large extent. The signboard is half English and half Bengali. I do not know about you but being a "Probashi Bangali" the heart particularly warms to the sight of the script and specially when it has to do with food.

The decor is typically Old Calcutta. Largish, oldish sofas suffice as seats. The feel is very similar to what you get in a slightly upmarket Calcutta outlet. The light is dim and not too bright, the A/C slightly on the chillier side. The walls are adorned with pictures of Calcutta of yore, as is the menu card. There are some really nice pictures of Howrah bridge and what was there before the present day structure existed. The waiters are well dressed in black uniforms but are delightfully not the most effective. The day we went the patrons were also reminiscent of old Kolkata, Bengali families of all shapes and sizes as well as one quintessential Bihari/ Marwari family. Howrah of all the restaurants in Mumbai was the most successful in transporting me back to Kolkata.

Maybe we went on a particularly bad day but the food in Howrah was surprisingly devoid of salt (or maybe that is how they serve their food and customers are expected to use the salt at the table). We had Daab Chingri (Prawns served in a White Coconut curry and served from inside the coconut shell), and Murgir Jhol (Chichen Curry). As I had mentioned, both the dishes were short on the salt and were disappointing. The chicken curry was also boneless, which I guess is hygienic but not the style that should be served in a Bengali restaurant. The menu however was one of the most varied I have seen in a Bengali restaurant and maybe they will not forget the salt the day you plan to visit. I was also not at my hungriest best and hence did not go for the interesting meal option that Howrah serves replete with Luchi, Chholar Daal, Rui Maach, and Mangsho or Chingri as per choice. The portions are limited but I am hopeful that the fare should be good. The highlight of the meal that we had was the sweet dish - we ordered a plate of Chhanar payesh, (smalll rasagullas in kheer). Completely authentic and very very delicious!
A meal for two at Howrah without drinks would cost you approximately Rs 700/-

How to get there: Howrah is the restaurant of the New Bengal Hotel, near Crawford market. From VT you have to drive towards Crawford market. Howrah will fall before the Crawford market alongside the J J Flyover on the right. It is slightly difficult to locate from the road. The more visible signage is that of Zaafraan which is the other Mughlai/ Chinese restaurant of the hotel.

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